Lucky Number 4

As I tried to sit down and write this post, I was at a loss for words. I didn't know where to start. There seemed to be no way to sum up the time I had spent abroad. No way, that is, until I started to think back further to my trip to Israel. That's when I realized today's date, and suddenly, everything came together.

Exactly 4 years ago today, on June 23, 2010, I left on my first trip abroad. I packed my giant suitcase and a small overnight bag and piled into the car. At JFK Airport, I met the 25 other students I would be traveling with that summer for the first time, and boarded my first international flight. We studied and traveled together for 45 days, and I will never stop being grateful for the friendships I made and the ways that travel changed me.

Fast forward to today. Not only has it been 4 years since my first trip began, Saturday marked 4 weeks since my semester abroad - which lasted 4 months - ended. A journey that started when I first landed in England on February 4 came to its conclusion at JFK Airport, where my first journey had begun.

At times, it feels like lifetimes have passed in the last 4 years. I'm so different today from the girl I was then. Even spending just 4 months abroad has changed me in so many ways. In the weeks since my return, I've started to pick apart the 4 months I spent in England, and here's what I've boiled it down to.

Number of visits made to St. Andrew's: 10 (to a class of 23 students)

The school placement program was one of the main reasons I had initially chosen to apply to ASE. I liked a number of things about the program, but the education program had been the first thing that pulled me to it. Thanks in part to friends in Rochester who listened to me rant about ASE and another program that had accepted me, I eventually decided to go to Bath for the semester, which was the best decision I could have made. The students in Year 4 welcomed me with open arms, and I had a fantastic time joining their class every week. 

Number of formal essays written: 6 (plus a 40-plus page education portfolio)

That's right, I did take classes this semester. It's called "STUDY" abroad for a reason. I did plenty of reading, took lots of notes, and even learned a few things in the classroom. As torturous as my Shakespeare class was, it taught me quite a bit. My Tudors and Stuarts course was equally as informative, although significantly more enjoyable thanks to a friendlier environment. My favorites by far were the education courses (one theory and one based on our placements) when the seven of us in the education program basically just hung out with Mike Rix and Andrew Butterworth. 

Number of cities visited: 19 (spanning 6 countries)

Traveling, whether with the program or for personal reasons, was one of the most fun things I did all semester. I took more train rides than I can count, and saw more landmarks and museums than I'll probably remember. I got a taste of so many incredible places, which only made me want to see more. 

Number of blog posts related to my trip: 38 

Even though I knew not many people would probably read my blog posts, I was so glad I decided to write about my journey. I would get back from a new place and pour all the memories out. I realized I became a bit of an adjective junky, but I simply couldn't find any other way to describe all I had seen.

Number of photos uploaded to Facebook: 1252 (plus 1 video)

Where words failed, my camera at least came closer. So many people have yelled at me for not being in many of my own photos, but as cliche as it sounds, I loved the way that the world looked through the lens of my camera. There were so many moments I wanted to capture, and looking back, I'm so happy I did. 

And, of course, the reason you all probably read this post, my grand total.

Number of miles logged: 269.28

I still can't believe all of the experiences I had this semester, or how long it's been since I returned. Looking back to my first summer abroad, I never saw this coming. I never imagined these opportunities, or the wonderful people I would meet along my journeys.

Here's to my next 4 amazing years.  

"Just don't eat my arm"

Although Spring Break had technically ended already, I still had one more adventure in the books: a weekend in Manchester and London. Around midday Thursday, Megan, Mackenzie and I grabbed our bags and headed back to the train station to catch our train to Bristol. Because of a delay, we missed our initial train to Machester, but we were able to grab the next train, getting us into Manchester at around 4:30. A bus took us to our hostel, where we dropped our bags, and then back into the city center.

We ate dinner a few blocks away from the concert hall we would be sitting in later that night at a cute little Italian restaurant. I managed to find a dish that was mostly kosher for Passover - no pasta or breading on the chicken - which was a welcome surprise. We ate quickly, knowing we only had a limited amount of time before we had to be out. From the restaurant, we walked to the main feature of our visit: a Piano Guys concert! Although Mackenzie isn't as big of a fan, Megan and I were ecstatic to be there. We bounced giddily in our seats as they played our favorite pieces - "Secrets" for me, "Titanium" for Megan - and even Mackenzie jammed along when they closed the show with "What Makes you Beautiful." We returned to the hostel after the show and went straight to sleep, excited for the rest of our weekend to begin.

I spent Friday morning doing some important shopping in Manchester while Megan and Mackenzie found a cafe to do some work, where I met them in time to catch our midday train into London. Once we got into London, we decided that we needed to drop off our bags and then find something to eat (Megan's response to Mackenzie's complaint of hunger became the title of this blog), so we hopped on the tube to our hostel to check in. Once we had left our things, we took the tube back in and grabbed a late lunch (this time I found Passover-friendly salmon), followed by a quick scoop of ice cream.

We decided to buy tickets for one of those hop on-hop off buses and spent the rest of the afternoon seeing the landmarks of London from the top of a double-decker bus. Although it got a bit chilly on the top deck, we had a fantastic time seeing the city from a whole new perspective. After dinner at a normal time, we finally headed back to the hostel to plan our Saturday adventures.

My Saturday started a bit earlier than my roommate's. As part of our tour bus ticket, we could watch the changing of the guard ceremony with the tour company. Although Megan and Mackenzie weren't interested, I certainly was, so I headed into the city early and agreed to meet them afterwards for lunch. The tour left from Trafalgar Square and traveled to the oldest residence of the palace complex, the soldier's barracks, Buckingham Palace, and finally the Clarendon residence. Getting to watch the changing of the guard was fantastically fun, and I was glad to have taken the opportunity.

After the ceremony ended, I took the tube to King's Cross Station, where Megan, Mackenzie and I took our pictures at platform 9 3/4. We waited in line, growing increasingly excited each time we got closer to the front. When our turn finally arrived, I went first, announcing "Slytherin" when asked for my house. One of the women working there had wrapped the Slytherin scarf around her neck to demonstrate how to avoid crushing your fingers, and she had to be called over so that I could wear it for my photo. When she heard that I was a Slytherin, she cheered and gave me a high-five before handing over the scarf. While I posed, she chatted with Mackenzie. When I went to return the scarf, she asked me what I was doing hanging out with a Gryffindor. I joked that I was really friends with her sister the Ravenclaw, and all was forgiven.

After we took our pictures at King's Cross Station, we rode the tube to Westminster Station for a London Walk to see some of the locations used for filming the Harry Potter. The guide asked trivia questions, and we were proud to answer some of the more difficult questions. Our answers regularly earned stickers not just for us but for some of the younger participants. Unfortunately, we had to duck out early so that we could make it to London Euston Station and take our train to Watford Junction. From there, we caught a bus to the Harry Potter Studio Tour.

The Studio Tour was incredible. We walked through the Great Hall and marveled at the costumes and still-standing sets. We gaped at the various books and potions, amazed by the number of props that had been created for the film series. Outside, we met a pair of owls, who had played Hedwig and Pigwidgeon in the films. We climbed aboard the night bus and rode on Hagrid's motorcycle. We crossed the bridge that exploded in the last film ("BOOM!"). The second half of the tour brought us through the creation of many of the monsters, followed by a stroll down Diagon Alley. Finally, we reached the exhibit on model building and concept art, which led to the model of Hogwarts built for the last film. The moment of seeing that was overwhelming, as if for a moment, the fiction became reality, and every instant of the tour had led to it.

We explored the gift shop and grabbed a bite at the cafe after the tour before heading back into London, where we took the tube back to our hostel for the night. We had to be up early the next morning to get to Paddington. I waited there while Megan brought her sister back to Heathrow, and then we hopped on the train back to Bath. Back home.

Spring Break Part 5: "I've never been serenaded by an accordion on the French metro"

I arrived back in France on Saturday morning and made my way to the hostel on the metro. Once I arrived at the right stop, however, I got a bit turned around and ended up heading in the wrong direction. Luckily, a number of kind locals helped me get back to where I needed to go. Megan and her sister Mackenzie arrived not long after I did, and we set off for the center of the city.

To get back into the city, we hopped back on the metro. Just after we got on, a gentleman stepped on carrying a speaker and an accordion. As the train began to move, he began to play, swaying with his music. Megan, Mackenzie and I just turned to each other, at which point Megan made the comment I pulled for the title.

Our first stop of the day was the Tour Eiffel, where we ate lunch. They served the food picnic style, basket and all, with each dish in a small tuperware. Although it was a bit expensive, how many times will you get the chance to eat a meal on the Eiffel Tower? The view was incredible and well worth the trip up. Although Megan and Mackenzie decided to continue up the rest of the tower, I opted to go back to the base. I wandered through the garden behind the tower for a bit and then met them when they returned. We decided it was time for a snack, so we found a stall selling crepes and at them as we walked along.

Our next stop was the Arc de Triomphe, which unfortunately was covered in scaffolding on one side. We walked along the Champs Elysees, passing the many restaurants and shops along its route as we headed toward the Louvre. We walked by three palaces on one corner and monuments to Charles de Gaulle and King Louis XIV (or maybe it was XVI?). We meandered through the gardens that led us to the Louvre, where we finally arrived. Although we didn't have the time to go in, we did get to see the courtyards and the pyramids within them.

Our stomachs started to growl, so we found a creperie around the corner and grabbed dinner there. After we ate, we found a bakery a few streets away so that we could buy macaroons to eat as a snack later that night. Snack in hand, we returned to the river bank beside the Louvre and bought tickets for a hop-on-hop-off boat tour that would bring us past many of the monuments. We hopped on at dusk and rode first to the Tour Eiffel, watching as it lit up for the evening, showered in gold light. We stayed on for the full tour, riding by the Notre Dame as we came around to the Louvre again. There, we hopped of for just a few minutes to see the pyramids again - now lit - and devour our snack. One of my favorite moments was standing in front of the Louvre and being able to look all the way down the Champs Elysees to see the Arc de Triomphe glowing at the other end. We rejoined the next boat to arrive, which brought us back to the Tour Eiffel so we could take the metro back to our hostel.

When we woke up Sunday morning, we had enough time to grab a leisurely breakfast and pack our things before heading back to the train station. We took the chunnel back to London, then the tube to Paddington Station, and finally a train back to Bath. Spring break had come to an end.

Spring Break Part 4: Hamburg, Germany

As night began to fall in Venice, I rolled my suitcase onto my first night train, which would take me to Munich. From there, I jumped on a train up to Hamburg. I took the tram to my hostel before I set off for the small neighborhood of Harburg.

You're probably thinking - why Harburg? It's a valid question, and one that I was asked often. Each time, I had the same response.

In the late 1920s, my grandmother was born in the suburb of Harburg-by-Hamburg. Her family fled in the mid 1930s to America, and she's never looked back. She'll tell us stories about growing up in New York, like how her older brother used to sneak her under the subway turnstiles, or about the day that she got home and met the man she would later marry studying with her brother, but Germany is off limits. To this day, my grandmother has never returned to the town where she was born. In fact, to my knowledge, none of the family has been back.

Until me.

I couldn't do much while I was there. Because she won't talk about her old life, we don't know exactly where she grew up, or what school she went to, or anything like that. I was, however, able to find a few buildings that were built in the late 1800s, old enough to have seen my grandmother's childhood. I wondered often whether she ever knew they were there.

After an emotional afternoon in Harburg, I returned to the city center and wandered through the botanical gardens. After the flowers in Italy had been in full bloom, it was amazing to see the buds in Germany just beginning to open up. I took the trams back to the hostel and found something to eat before going to bed.

The next morning, I set off just after breakfast, leaving my suitcase in luggage storage once again. I spent the morning near the center of town, exploring the Brahms and Telemann museums, honoring a pair of musicians who called Hamburg "home" at different points in their lives. From there I saw St. Michael's, the most famous church in Hamburg, and then it was off to the old town hall, called the "Rathaus" (which I pronounced as "rat house" but I'm not sure if that was right), where I picked up a late lunch.

I spent the afternoon down on the harbor, including a visit to the Miniature Wonderland. I'm not an artist, so the precision of the work there was absolutely incredible. Tiny people lived in little houses. Day became night and then day again. The USA area was particularly entertaining, featuring Mount Rushmore and Las Vegas as the main attractions.

I took the trams back to the hostel to pick up my bag and then went back to the central train station, where I bought dinner until it was time for my train. The second night train would take me to Paris, the last stop on my spring break.

Spring Break Part 3: Venice, Italy

From Florence I took a train to Venice, arriving in mid afternoon. I checked into my hostel and then set off to explore the beautiful city. Although you can get a map of Venice, they don't help all that much. It's easier (and more fun) to just follow the signs from one place to another. I spent my first few hours just exploring, wandering through the narrow streets and over the innumerable canals.

Unexpectedly, I found the old Jewish quarter on my travels. After learning about it in my Mythologizing Shakespeare class (we covered The Merchant of Venice among other plays), it was intriguing to see its remains. To this day, the area is populate by Jews. The restaurants in the area are kosher, as is the little grocer's stall. Shops sell Jewish jewelry and art. Around every corner was a sign wishing residents and visitors a happy Pesach. After exploring the area a bit, I noticed the sun had begun to set, so I headed back to the hostel to grab dinner and get to bed.

The next morning, I woke up early. I packed my things and brought my bag to the luggage storage that the hostel provided before grabbing a cup of tea and a light breakfast. I set out for the Ponte Rialto and the Piazza San Marco, two of the most famous aspects of Venice. One of the greatest parts of waking up early was that when I arrived at the Piazza, very few tourists had woken up. I got to see the monuments without the crowds that would appear later in the day. I wandered around for a bit and then headed for Academia, an area filled with art schools and galleries. I found a cafe for lunch, and then treated myself to gelato before going back to the Piazza to go into some of the monuments I had seen earlier in the day.

I started with the Doge's palace, which was probably my favorite site of the day. I especially loved the golden staircase, so named because of the gold leaf covering much of the ceiling. After spending a good portion of the afternoon there, I toured the inside of the Basilica and then walked across the Piazza to a museum made of rooms that were once the Empress's chambers. It was so interesting to see the two different living areas on opposite ends of the square. Though originally inhabited at different times, they both had the same royal feel.

Finally, I made my way back toward the train station. I grabbed a bite to eat and picked up my bag, moving my belongings around so that I would be ready for the train that would take me to my next stop: Germany.

Spring Break Part 2: Florence, Italy

On Sunday, I spent much of the day traveling by train, first from Cannes to Ventimiglia, then Ventimiglia to Milan, and finally Milan to Firenze. Each leg of the trip was vastly different, but I have to say that the first two were my favorites of my whole trip. From Cannes to Ventimiglia, I chose a seat on the top level of the train, settling in next to a window that faced the south. We rode along the beautiful coast of France, by far my favorite scenery from my journey. The trip to Milan was my other favorite because of the actual train. I walked onto the train and discovered that it was made up of compartments stretching off a long corridor. Each compartment held 6 seats in two rows facing each other. Being the nerd that I am, I realized that this was my first ever trip on a train in the style of the Hogwarts Express. Even though no one came through with a trolley of sweets, I had a wonderful time on the ride.

I arrived at the Santa Maria Novella train station just as dusk began to fell and was glad that my hostel was just a few blocks away. I found my way there in just minutes, dragging my small suitcase behind me. There, I met up with a group of students on my program, some of whom had forgotten that I would be joining them for a short part of the break. They greeted me enthusiastically, and after dropping my bag in the room where I'd stay, I sat with Mila, Katie, Clare, Amy and Bella outside in the cool night air. We sat up talking until it got late, laughing and joking loudly.

The next morning, we took advantage of the free breakfast at the hostel before setting out for the Piazza Michelangelo, the highest point in the city. Along the way, we paused briefly at the covered market to pick up some fruit, which would be the perfect snack that afternoon. We walked past the Santa Croce, where Galileo is buried (among others). We crossed the canal and walked down a few small side streets until we came to the base of the stairs leading up to the Piazza. Halfway up the climb, we paused to explore a sculpture garden before finishing the journey. The view from the top was worth every step, and we roamed around of a bit. We were glad to have left our jackets back in the hostel as the warm sun shone down, illuminating tulips already fully in bloom.

I split off from the group, descending the stairs and walking back over the canal toward the palazzo vecchio, where I met up with Elizabeth for lunch. One of my favorite parts of visiting with other people who are abroad is that they tend to show you their favorite places off the beaten track, and in Elizabeth's case, a deli and a gelato shop were in order for the day. We grabbed paninis and caught up on our semesters so far. Our stories grew toward more distant pasts as we realized how long it had been since we had last seen one another - just over a year by our calculations - and we brought our gelatos along as she showed me the Palazzo Republica, famous for its arches and the carousel that has been erected in its center. After, we made our way back to the palazzo, where we sat until it was time for Elizabeth to head to class.

I met back up with the group at the Ponte Vecchio, the city's most famous bridge. We found a cafe (they hadn't yet eaten lunch) where we sat for a bit, happy to be off our feet after a long morning of walking. After our break, we walked back over the bridge to the Duomo. The cathedral rose before us, and we waited in line for just a few minutes before being admitted to explore. I marveled at the ceiling, high above us, painted so clearly that the details were clear, even from the ground.

We returned to the hotel for the afternoon, sitting out on the porch and breaking into the morning's fruit.We relaxed for much of the rest of the day, venturing out only to get dinner and gelato. I was glad to have a chance to catch up with some of the people on the trip, realizing that even with Oxford, there were so many people I simply never got a chance to talk with. I said goodbye to them that night, as they would be leaving early the next morning to continue their journey through Italy to Roma.

The next morning, I met up with Olivia. I dropped my suitcase in her room so that I wouldn't have to drag it to lunch and such. I had my first taste of Italian pasta for lunch, and then we sat in a park near her apartment until I had to go to the train station and she had to go to class. I loved getting to see her and catch up - we had last spent time together a year and a half earlier - and I was sad to have to go. At the same time, I was excited to see what the next stops on my break would bring.

"How many waffles can you eat in a weekend in Brussels? Challenge accepted"

After the success of Scotland and Ireland, it was time for a different kind of challenge: language. Megan and I decided that in honor of my birthday, we were going to take a trip to Brussels, the land of waffles and chocolate.

We started our journey by hopping on a train from Bath to London Paddington first thing Friday morning. Once we arrived in London, we briskly walked across town to St. Pancras station (about 2.4 miles), where we had our passports checked for our ride to Brussels. We arrived in Belgium in the early afternoon, and we immediately set off toward the center of the city.

Anyone who has ever visited Brussels will probably tell you that you need to see the Grand Place, and when that was the first stop on our journey, we could tell why. We had opted to walk from the train station, and the roads leading up to the Grand Place weren't really anything special. All of a sudden, however, the streets emptied into a large courtyard. Ornate buildings lined the sides of what was once a central market square. Small streets around the edges led to restaurants, cafes, and shops. We wandered around until we found a cafe, where we grabbed lunch, and then we looked for a good waffle shop.

Waffle 1: banana and chocolate

After we found our first waffles, we continued our quest for Belgium's other indulgence: chocolate. We found a little chocolate shop, and then we bought some chocolate ice cream before walking up to our hostel. We checked in and relaxed for a bit there, letting the day catch up with us. After a short while, we left the hostel in search of Greenwich Tavern, a traditional Belgian pub recommended by my brother's old roommate. Dinner was delicious, and I got to brush up on my French vocabulary, since the menu wasn't in English. This meant that I ordered for both myself and my roommate, which I was proud to have done successfully. Afterwards, we headed back to the Grand Place for dessert, which was of course going to be waffles again :)

Waffle 2: nutella

We walked back up to the hostel, waffles in hand, and turned in for the night. The next morning, we decided to get an early start so that we could cram everything else we wanted to do in before our train back to London. When we left the hostel, the streets were completely deserted. The city was absolutely silent. It was incredible. We made our way back to the Grand Place, where we got breakfast - waffles, of course - at a little cafe.

Waffle 3: banana and whipped cream

After breakfast, we discovered a huge chocolate shop, where we purchased our souvenir chocolate, aka my birthday present to myself. I must say, I've never had a celebration quite as sweet. Our next stop was the Museum of Musical Instruments, which was definitely one of the coolest things I've ever been to. We got audio guides at the entrance, which activated when held over symbols in front of many of the display cases. However, instead of the typical history or descriptions of the instruments in the cases, the audio files were actual pieces of music played by the instruments in question. The museum's collection included an incredible array of instruments in beautiful condition. The featured exhibit explored the history of the saxophone.

After spending a bit of time at the museum, we continued on our route to see the last few big shops. We stopped at Place Royal and the Palais Royal (royal palace). Our last big stop was the Place du Petit Sablon, an adorable little park. We walked back to the Place Royal to grab one more waffle for the day.

Waffle 4: whipped cream

After our last waffles, it was time to head back to the train station. We retraced our route through the Grand Place. We stopped for tea on the way back and then grabbed sandwiches at the station for a late lunch. We checked in for our train ride back to the UK and passed through border security. Our train to London went smoothly, and then we bolted across town to Paddington station so we would have time to grab dinner (a pair of bagels) before we hopped on the train to Bath Spa. Once we got back, we broke into our chocolate before we went to bed, ready for some well-earned rest after a successful birthday celebration :)

London

After we spent all of Friday out and about, my roommate and I decided to go to London for the day on Saturday and hit a few of the sites. We boarded the 8:45 train to maximize our time in London, reaching Paddington station at 10:15. From there, we walked to the British Museum, somehow managing to not get exceptionally lost along the way!

In the Museum, we explored the many incredible artifacts. We got to check out the Rosetta Stone, among others, which was especially cool because the people around us were speaking at least a half dozen different languages, reminding us of the powerful impact the Rosetta Stone had on the way we look at other cultures. We also picked up lunch while we were there, perfectly comfortable with the slightly higher prices since admission had been free. After lunch, we hit the African exhibit and the Clocks and Watches display before catching an afternoon tour of Ancient Rome.

We left the museum around 4 so that we could do a bit of site-seeing before it got dark. From the British Museum, we walked to the London Eye, and then continued down the block to Big Ben. We turned the corner towards Parliament, but we noticed the light had started to wane, so we changed course and headed to Waterloo station, where we grabbed dinner before we caught a train first to Salisbury and then to Bath. Another successful trip in my opinion :)

Cheers!

Day Trip to Cardiff

Our first week of classes was long and draining, so by the end of the week, we were definitely ready for a break. That's why, when Saturday morning rolled around, Amy, Chelsi, Madeline, Megan and I boarded a train for Cardiff.

To those of you who watch Doctor Who or any of its spinoffs, I'm sure you understand why I was a little excited to go to Cardiff for the day. Sure, there's wonderful shopping and marvelous museums. An interesting pairing of old and new architecture across the city. Restaurants to try and attractions to see. But then there's the Doctor Who Experience.

After an hour-long train ride through the (severely flooded) English and Welsh countrysides, our group split into two. Amy and Madeline went in search of museums and shopping, while Chelsi, Megan and I set off for nerdier attractions. We decided to walk just over a mile from the center of Cardiff down to Cardiff Bay, and we were very grateful for signs pointing us in the right direction. Once we arrived, we bought our tickets and in we went! It's safe to say that I spent the following hour or so completely geeking out, especially as we toured the exhibition hall, which had all the costumes of the doctors and recent companions, plus a look at the many bad guys that the Doctor has encountered.

We rejoined the rest of the group at a local pub for lunch, and then we set off for the local castle. Yes, the "local" castle. We had at least 3 options from which to choose, and our selection was the closest, right on the edge of the center of town. We bought our tickets (and got discounts with our Doctor Who receipts) and our tour of the castle started with a walk along the battlements. When we reached the furthest we could walk, we descended a level to walk back through tunnels that served as bomb shelters in WWII. We emerged on the castle green and began the ascent up to the old tower. Steep stairs guided us into the stone structure, which hid a small green of its own. Our last stop was the apartments, which are still fully furbished. We walked through ornate banquet halls and a beautiful library among other rooms, all fit for royalty.

Finally, we walked back to the train station, ready to head back to Bath after a long day. We hung around the train station waiting for our train to come up on the monitors with the platform number, but as soon as it did, its cancellation was announced! We rushed to the ticket office, where the attendant kindly rerouted us to Swindon, where we could switch trains in order to get to Bath. We ran up the stairs to the platform just in time to watch the train pull in and hop on board. A few stops later, we arrived in Swindon and gathered our things. To our dismay, the train we were initially supposed to board - which would have brought us to Bath on its way to Bristol Temple Meads - was also cancelled. The information desk was temporarily unmanned, so Amy and Chelsi looked for other options while the rest of us waited for an attendant. Luckily, we were able to hop on a train heading past Bristol that would stop in Bath on its route. The train had been delayed, which meant that instead of departing 10 minutes before we arrived, which could have been devastating, we had just a 10 minute wait. At last, after a long day, we finally traveled the last leg of our journey. It felt wonderful to get back to Bath.

Cheers!