Spring Break Part 4: Hamburg, Germany

As night began to fall in Venice, I rolled my suitcase onto my first night train, which would take me to Munich. From there, I jumped on a train up to Hamburg. I took the tram to my hostel before I set off for the small neighborhood of Harburg.

You're probably thinking - why Harburg? It's a valid question, and one that I was asked often. Each time, I had the same response.

In the late 1920s, my grandmother was born in the suburb of Harburg-by-Hamburg. Her family fled in the mid 1930s to America, and she's never looked back. She'll tell us stories about growing up in New York, like how her older brother used to sneak her under the subway turnstiles, or about the day that she got home and met the man she would later marry studying with her brother, but Germany is off limits. To this day, my grandmother has never returned to the town where she was born. In fact, to my knowledge, none of the family has been back.

Until me.

I couldn't do much while I was there. Because she won't talk about her old life, we don't know exactly where she grew up, or what school she went to, or anything like that. I was, however, able to find a few buildings that were built in the late 1800s, old enough to have seen my grandmother's childhood. I wondered often whether she ever knew they were there.

After an emotional afternoon in Harburg, I returned to the city center and wandered through the botanical gardens. After the flowers in Italy had been in full bloom, it was amazing to see the buds in Germany just beginning to open up. I took the trams back to the hostel and found something to eat before going to bed.

The next morning, I set off just after breakfast, leaving my suitcase in luggage storage once again. I spent the morning near the center of town, exploring the Brahms and Telemann museums, honoring a pair of musicians who called Hamburg "home" at different points in their lives. From there I saw St. Michael's, the most famous church in Hamburg, and then it was off to the old town hall, called the "Rathaus" (which I pronounced as "rat house" but I'm not sure if that was right), where I picked up a late lunch.

I spent the afternoon down on the harbor, including a visit to the Miniature Wonderland. I'm not an artist, so the precision of the work there was absolutely incredible. Tiny people lived in little houses. Day became night and then day again. The USA area was particularly entertaining, featuring Mount Rushmore and Las Vegas as the main attractions.

I took the trams back to the hostel to pick up my bag and then went back to the central train station, where I bought dinner until it was time for my train. The second night train would take me to Paris, the last stop on my spring break.